Suffer from Ketorisis Pilaris? Top Tips From Dermatoligist Dr Shmitz

I have had keratosis pilaris (KP), also known as chicken skin, since a young age. It is a common skin condition that appears as small, rough, red bumps on the skin. It tends to develop on the backs of arms and on the front of thighs, but, it can appear elsewhere too, such as the face. “It will go away on its own” I was told by doctors, but fast forward a few years later… and KP is still something I am dealing with.

“Is it curable?” I hear you ask. Unfortunately, there are no “remedies” that will completely cure your KP because it is encrypted within your DNA. But, that doesn’t mean it’s impossible to manage if its bothering you. I had the pleasure of meeting an experienced dermatologist who was happy to provide us with some excellent information and insight.

So, what is the cause behind KP?

“Keratosis pilaris is a genetic skin condition that is basically caused by an excess build-up of keratin in the hair follicles. The build-up consequently causes rough, hard plugs that look red and inflamed,” says Dr Shmitz, MD, specialist dermatologist at Medcare Private Hospital Dubai, “if you have dry skin and/or have a history of eczema, it can make it worse.”

Can certain foods make it worse?

“A lot of research has recently gone on to suggest that KP is a low-grade inflammation in the body that’s presenting itself in your hair follicles.” He also added that ensuring certain nutrients and eliminating foods that you are intolerant to can contribute to the level of inflammation. Being mindful of what your body is tolerant and intolerant to could be an excellent step in the right direction.

When showering, does water temperature have anything to do with it?

“Long, hot showered baths can suck out the moisture from your skin; if your skin is dry, your KP symptoms will worsen.” Explained Dr Shmitz. If you are anything like me and can only have hot showers, then Dr Shmitz strongly recommends moisturising immediately after you come out. He also recommends using a moisturiser that contains an AHA acid, like salicylic acid, to help aid the texture of your skin by smoothing out the keratotic papules.

Amlactin seems to be the most popular pick in the KP world too, but you can find natural-based ones such as True Botanicals Body Resurfacing Mask, which has lactic acid, sandalwood oil and anti-inflammatory green tea.

Can I Use Retinol?

If retinol is great for fine lines and wrinkles and multiple other skin concerns, then surely it should help your keratosis pilaris, right? Correct!

“Vitamin-A derivatives found in treatments such as retinol fasten your cell turnover on your skin. This turnover disallows any build-up on skin cells from occurring, including keratin.” explained Dr Shmitz. AHAs and BHAs are quicker and the most effective, but everyone’s skin is different. What could work for me, might not work for you, and vice versa.

If you do decide to opt for the retinol approach, be sure to apply it at night and apply plenty of SPF the following morning.

Can I mix retinol with AHAs and BHAs?

“There are a lot of misconceptions, but to be safe and to avoid any harsh reactions, do not mix Retinol with vitamin C, AHA/BHA acids and benzoyl peroxide, especially if you have sensitive skin. They can cancel each other out and dry out your skin terribly.” And if we have learnt anything from Dr Shmitz so far – dry skin is KP’s worst enemy, so in short, avoid! On the day you are using AHA/BHA acids in your skincare routine, don’t use retinol.

Are there any treatments or procedures to remove the redness?

I had hope when asking this question, but Dr Shmitz coherently explained that “laser treatment is the only procedure I would recommend for eliminating the redness. It would have to be a weak laser to prevent scarring and be completed once a month for 10 months. Though this would eliminate the redness, it won’t eliminate the problem. Your KP could reappear and it would be back to square one.”

To conclude, KP is not “curable” because its part of your DNA (thanks mum and dad), but it will often fade away with age. The following points are worth incorporating in your day-to-day lifestyle to help manage its appearance and inflammation:

• Exfoliate – for the body, use a rough washcloth or a kessa glove with a moisturising cleanser when showering, or use a cleanser that contains lactic acid.

• Moisturise immediately after showering - long hot showers dry out the skin, which can make your KP worse. The quicker the shower, the better.

• Hydration - drink plenty of water and use moisturises that is excellent for dry skin.

• Diet - keep an eye out for what foods you are intolerant to – this could be causing the inflammation of your KP.

• Maintenance - stick to a solid skincare routine that includes exfoliation a few times a week and hydrating every day of the week.

Amina’s top tip: Invest in a humidifier, such as this one. By keeping a good balance of moisture in the room that you sleep in, your skin will not dry out and, in turn, help your KP.